by H.J. Whitling [Henry John Whitling].
Author of "Pictures of Nuremberg."
Originally published in Bentley's Miscellany (Richard Bentley) vol.27 #161 (May 1850).
I would wager my head to a China orange that the reader has never been to Norway; and, were it possible, a still longer odds, that if he have travelled so far, he has not seen a tenth part of the interesting objects to which I am about to direct his attention. Monuments are they both of history and art: national monuments, which till lately, want of information, want of taste, and ignorance combined with the silent, but certain ravages of time have tended to mutilate, and in some cases almost to destroy.
There is undoubtedly no study either more instructive, or worthier of a thinking being—and such I am persuaded the reader is—than the history of the human race. This history, however, does not merely consist in a barren enumeration of places, or countries, or of the people that inhabit them; neither in the perpetually recurring wars, sufferings, or crimes which rapine and ambition have entailed upon them, but rather in the more tranquil picture of manners, religion, arts, sciences, and monuments still existing illustrative of the same.
The culture of the arts and sciences was for many years neglected, if not abandoned in Norway, and I am inclined to think the reason was that under the Danish rule Norway was regarded as a sort of colony, and, like many other colonies, governed principally for the benefit and advantage of the mother country, and its mother enriched herself with the spoil of Norwegian remains, antiquities, and archives. Since the time, however, that Norway was united to Sweden, the study of science end literature has again revived in the latter, antiquarian researches have been resumed, and the result of all these labours has been in the highest degree interesting and satisfactory.
The recent progress of historical study in Norway, is principally due to the University of Christiana, which possesses in all branches of learning, professors of the highest merit; also to the Antiquarian Society of Bergen, which counts amongst its members several men of distinguished attainments; and last, though not least, to the Trondhjem Scientific Society, which, although professedly more particularly occupied with the natural sciences, by no means neglects national history.
At the head of all distinguished historians and antiquarians of latter times may be cited Holberg, who is justly styled by some "the father of Norwegio-Danish literature." He is the author of many valuable works, both archeological and historical, and it is curious to observe how, with his profound erudition, he combines a comic vein of dramatic humour that has gained for him the appellative of the Northern Moliere. Stróm's historical description of Norway, and Falsen's history of that country, under Harald Haarfager and his descendants, are highly esteemed productions, and a topographical and statistical description of Norway by Kraft, of which a new edition is on the point of making its appearance, contains a most interesting account of the various monuments of antiquity scattered at no distant intervals over the Norwegian soil.
A learned orientalist, and professor at the University of Christiana, named Holmboe, wrote some time ago in Latin and Swedish, an interesting description of some ancient ornaments of dress, coins, and utensils of the eighth and ninth centuries, discovered in 1834 and 1840. They consist of a valuable collection of coins of the Caliphs, Scandinavian amulets, bracelets, and rings; together with cups, lamps, drinking vessels, &c. Among the ornaments are a beautiful necklace of massive gold, a collar twisted like a rope, and a most superb fibula, cut in relief, with arabesque ornaments, which was worn on the breast. Another professor of the same university has been long engaged in copying, from time to time, various old records and manuscripts of the ancient Norwegian laws, now in the library of Copenhagen. His labours are destined to complete a collection which is in course of publication, at the expense of the government.
It may naturally be inquired why the government does not now enforce in Norway the protective measures adopted in Denmark and Sweden for the preservation of its valuable historical remains? But this would unfortunately be no easy task. Then the country itself. It is far less explored than either Sweden or Denmark. This is owing to the peculiar nature of its territory. Norway is densely interspersed with thick forests and rocks, the abode of the wolf and the bear, and its difficulties are greatly increased by its numerous rivers, torrents, fiords, and arms of the sea, which render many parts of it almost impracticable.
In Norway, still more than in Sweden, the face of nature calls up recollections of antiquity. The aspect of its scenery is in perfect accordance with the history and mythology of the North; and to the eye of one acquainted with Scandinavian legends, it assumes a character animated and poetical in the highest degree. The ruins of the various revolutions of the earth present a series of pictures both manifold and imposing, and from which northern cosmogony appears to have drawn, if not actually borrowed, its grand scenes of conflict and desolation. Whilst listening to the hoarse roaring of the distant torrents, and the mysterious noises borne upward from the valleys; or contemplating by the light of the aurora borealis, the massive rocks of granite, each crowned with its groups of black fir trees, it is easy to conceive the magical effect such inspiring scenery must have produced upon many a human mind in the dark ages of a still darker paganism.
Although, as I have said, Norway has been deprived of some of her monuments of art, she has shown to the world that she has neither lost her recollections or her national spirit. For ages and ages have her children preserved, engraven on their hearts and memories, the simple manners and customs of their primitive ancestors. Perhaps in no part of Europe are local traditions, legends, and popular customs and usages cherished and upheld so warmly and truthfully as in the central provinces of Norway, and the celebrated island of Iceland; and certainly in no other country do we find so many traits of primitive national feeling and character. There the ancient Scandinavian idiom has retained much of its original character, and it may not be generally known that in this old dialect there still exists a great number of Sanscrit words, so many that I have been informed one of the Christiana professors has collected between three and four hundred words that are common to both languages. In the midst of modern civilization, the Norwegian peasant retains traits of character and ancient customs which seem to be rooted in the soil of his country as deeply as the old rocks. The songs and ballads which resound in his valleys have a peculiarly wild and plaintive melody, and are unlike the music of any other country. The sports and games of the people resemble in many respects, those of the Greeks; and their national dress is, with little exception, the same as that worn eight centuries ago.
During some years past archeological researches have excited the interest and intellect of many warm and able friends of science in Norway. The discoveries made already have afforded the best ground of hope that others of a still more important nature are forthcoming. The environs of the ancient city of Tonsberg, the places adjacent to Trondhjem, Bergen, and Christiana, all the northern coast with its intricate groups of islands and islets—Norland and Heligoland—all celebrated in the wild legends of the North by the heroes to whom they have given birth, must doubtless contain many yet undiscovered vestiges of bygone times. The fertile provinces of Gulbrandsdalen—which, to the Norwegian revives recollections of the heroic deeds of their ancestors—also offers a rich field for antiquarian research.
Norway, though containing a great number of fortified castles, possesses perhaps fewer ancient religious monuments than any other of the Northern States. She is, however, rich in the possession of a certain species of architectural antiquity not to be found in any other country. This consists of ancient wooden temples, formed of thick masts or beams, placed vertically one against another, and ornamented with carvings in wood. These curious and highly interesting monuments are yet but imperfectly known, and deserve the careful attention and investigation of architects, archeologists, and artists. Several of them are to be found in the province of Tellemarken, and in the valleys of Bergen; but some of the most remarkable are Hitterdal, Burghund, and Urnes, That of Burghund is situated amongst the wild and picturesque rocks of the province of Vindall, and at a distance looks a huge broken and dismembered scaffolding. As you approach it the design unfolds itself; you perceive it to be a temple; its roof shows something like a bold cornice surmounted at intervals by strongly carved dragons, whose peculiar position and form impart to the building the character of a Chinese pagoda. On a close examination, however, the art, not to say science, displayed in its construction, as well as the taste and admirable execution of its ornaments, are truly extraordinary, and mark it as one of the most interesting examples extant of its period, purposes, and manner of erection.
Whether these edifices were originally erected for Christian worship or the rites of paganism, is a question perhaps more easy to ask than to answer. But whatever be their age (for there are too many conflicting opinions amongst the Norsemen for me to pretend to quote them) or their origin they bear a stern stamp of rugged antiquity and a peculiar local character that must be felt and cannot be mistaken. Some architects will say they in some respects exhibit an affinity to the Roman and Byzantine styles of architecture; true, and in others they totally differ from both. The ornaments of the capitals of the doors and porticos are in a style belonging peculiarly to the North; in others you may trace forms belonging to the South; but when we consider the regular and beautiful language that nation possessed, together with its lofty conceptions and brilliant poetry, it is surely not too much to presume that it had a taste, a style of architecture, and a plastic art entirely its own.
The sculptured ornaments of these temples consist principally of arabesques, formed of serpents, dragons, and various fanciful animals, evidently borrowed from the Northern mythology. Among the nations of Indian and Germanic origin the dragon was an emblem of vigilance and power. Perhaps the intertwinings of the serpent are allusions to the great serpent, Midgard, who in Scandinavian mythology is represented as encircling the earth in its coils. The dragon and the serpent were, moreover, favourite objects amongst the people of most ancient nations, by whom they were employed both as symbols and attributes, and sometimes as mere ornaments; but by no people were they held in higher favour than by the Scandinavians. They were represented in painting, or in sculpture, on their arms, on their flags, and on their vessels. The twining of the serpent is affixed, like the national seal on all their works of art, on Runic stones, sculptures in wood, household utensils, and ornaments of the toilette. The arabesques, formed of serpents, dragons, &c., are remarkable for their irregular combinations and the obvious pains taken to deprive them of all symmetry. Those which the traveller may observe to adorn the old country churches in Norway are conspicuous for the rich intricacy of their design and the beautiful taste and finish of their execution.
These curious structures, with their pyramidal roofs and tapering pinnacles, leave little room to doubt that the nations of the north participated largely in the Ogival and Byzantine modifications introduced into Roman architecture. The first idea of the Gothic architectural ornament is observable in those serpentine twistings, the intricate net-work, and the intersection of animal and vegetable ramifications which cover the cornices and pillars.
Amongst the old stone churches in Norway, the most remarkable is the cathedral of Trondhjem, formerly Nidaros, a town built on the Nid about the year 987. In Catholic times it was the see of a celebrated archbishop. The beautiful basilica, to which, for the space of several centuries, pilgrims resorted from all parts of the north, was built of ollar stones. A great part of it was destroyed by fire in 1719: the choir, the only part saved, presents a most imposing aspect. The rest of the edifice is of modern construction. In this cathedral the kings of Norway are crowned; it is consecrated to St. Olaf, who even to this day enjoys a great odour of sanctity among the Norwegians. A little monument is erected to his memory on the field of the battle of Stiklestad, where he fell, a victim to his zeal in converting, or attempting to convert, his subjects to Christianity. Charles John, who neglected no opportunity of rendering homage to the historical recollections cherished by his subjects, visited the spot a few years ago on the anniversary of the death of Olaf. On that same day the king of Sweden and Norway inaugurated, not far from the spot, a monument of still greater importance, namely,—the road made in Jemtland, across the Norwegian Alps, and extending for the space of ten leagues through thick forests and over rugged heights, bordered on either side by deep and savage precipices. The obstacles which opposed the execution of this most gigantic undertaking can only be conceived by those who have seen the wild and stupendous scenery of that part of Norway. Those who have only wandered through woods of small extent, and adjacent, or nearly so, to the abodes of men, can form no conception of the silence and solitude which pervade such scenery amidst the greater forests. The former are full of song birds, in whose very aspect there is gladness, and in whose notes there is no touch of melancholy; and, moreover, being, as they are, associated with gardens and lawns, and even with our very parlour windows, mirthful, rather than gloomy images are awakened by their presence. But no such sounds, no such images, no such associations as these belong to the great forests of the North. There no little birds twitter from spray to spray; the rustling amongst the bushes indicates the presence of no familiar animal, but of something wild and solitary; something with which common every-day life has no association.
The road above-mentioned opens an important communication between Sweden and Norway, and cannot fail to rivet, indeed, it has already rivetted, the bond of union between the two countries, and established between them relations favourable not only to commerce, but likewise to the arts.
Next to the old cathedral of Trondhjem the most remarkable is that of Stavanger, which is deservedly celebrated. In Bergen there are also two ancient and beautiful churches. Historians mention several old religious edifices both of wood and stone, but few traces of them now remain. Peringskiold speaks of a temple which was erected at Vakshala in the earliest times of the diffusion of Christianity, and one built in some other place, the name of which I do not now remember, about the year 987. Sigurd, on his return from Palestine, where he undertook a crusade, at the head of a troop of Norwegians, built a church at Kongal about the year 1120. The church of Hlade (an awkward name to pronounce), half a league from Trondhjem, is built on the ruins of a celebrated pagan temple, which was destroyed by Olaf Trygvesón, an ardent propagator of the Christian faith.
Besides these religious monuments, Norway possesses also other edifices of wood, which (according to tradition) belong to the remotest periods of its history. There are several old buildings, now used as magazines, called stabu or stolpebod, which are raised on thick piles, and are adorned with fragments of sculpture in the same taste as those of the churches. In some private dwelling-houses the walls are formed of trunks of trees ranged closely one against another, and ornamented with carvings of the same material, a style which might well be introduced into rustic buildings in England, and I am assured with the best effect. Some of these houses at Tonsberg and other parts of Norway are very ancient and remarkable. In the Amt of Trondhjem there is a curious old farm-house, which is recorded to have been built in the year 1011, and afterwards became the residence of Olaf II. In the parish of Sogndal, near Bergen, there is a small house which dates in the tenth century. On the cornice above the doorway are carved the figures of two armed knights; and within the house, on a tablet fixed in the wall, there are two men's heads, with caps similar to those at Novogorod, on the bronze gate of St. Sophia, which are said to have been taken from a church at Sigtuna.
The skill attained by the Norwegians in the art of carving in wood was naturally applied also to their naval architecture, for which they have in all ages been renowned. The maritime expeditions of the ancient nations of the north gave the signal for the great exploratory voyages of modern times, and bear evidence of the importance of their navies. Tradition acquaints us that their numerous vessels varied in form and extent, according to their destination. They had light barks for river navigation, which on land were conveyed from place to place on men's shoulders; and they had also ships strongly built, well fitted out, and adapted to stormy seas and long and perilous voyages. Their vessels of war frequently carried horses and carriages, and even wooden towers, with sheltered platforms, on which were posted the archers and slingers.
The serpent vessels (Snekkar) and the dragon vessels (Drakar) were artistically ornamented with carved work. These vessels, models of which are still to be seen, remind one of a species of Indian boat, of a long and narrow form, called the Baqulya, which has at its prow a dragon's head, and at the stern the tail of a serpent. The Drakar of Olaf Trygvesón is cited in records of the tenth century, as the giant of Scandinavian vessels. It was said to be the finest ever seen for its vast bulk, as well as for the beauty of its decorations. As early as the ninth century, the vessels of Harald Haarfager excited admiration; they were adorned with large gilt figures. One of the scalds, describing the great naval battle of Haarfars-Fiord (in which the jarls were leagued against the founder of the Danish monarchy), exclaims, "Hearken, and I will relate the direful battle of the Gulf of Hafur, between he of the illustrious descent and Kiotve the rich! They come, they come from the East, in the winged ships, eager for the slaughter, their mouths gaping for blood, and their sides covered with the carved shields."
The Norwegians excelled not only in the art of carving in wood, but also in that of embroidery, which, indeed, was held in high honour in all the northern nations. The Scandinavian warrior found a glorious reward in seeing his exploits recorded in tapestry, especially if wrought by female hands. In a church at Bilden, a town in Adeland, there is a very ancient piece of tapestry, five feet and a half long. It represents a knight armed with a lance, a man surrounded by various animals, emblems, and symbols; the whole set in a frame-work of fine arabesque ornaments.
About sixty years ago there existed near the territory of Sole, in the bailiwick of Stavanger, a curious remnant of Norwegian antiquity. This was a Thingkreds, or circle for the assembly of a judicial court. Those who were old enough at the time to remember it, declare it to have been one of the most remarkable monuments of antiquity contained in the three kingdoms. It is now, however, buried beneath a mass of sand. According to the description given of it by the Governor of Fine, it was upwards of two hundred feet in circumference, and was composed of twenty-four stones of an oblong form, each four feet high. Between each of these dark oblong stones, were ranged three small round white ones, a sort of ornamenting anciently much used here. In the middle of the circle stood a large square table of stone, before which were also placed two white stones, intended as seats for the judges. The space between the table and the boundary of the circle was divided into eight equal parts, by lines of small stones, commencing with the angles and the middle of each of the four sides of the table, and terminating at the stones of the circumference. A beautiful symbol of the extent and equal diffusion of justice to all within the province of their jurisdiction. The extent of this monument, the regularity and care observed in its construction, render it more curious than any other of the Thingkreds whose existence is known. It is earnestly hoped it will ere long be again entirely exhumed.
It is supposed that this was the circle in which the renowned and powerful erling, Skalgson, used occasionally to assemble his principal subjects. That jarl, so celebrated in Norwegian history, flourished at the close of the tenth and commencement of the eleventh centuries. His residence was in a strong castle in the gaard of Sole, and he married a sister of King Olaf's, who presented to him a great extent of territory, which both by sword and diplomacy he seems to have known well how to preserve. This noble, when any other jarl came to visit him, assembled at his court between eighty and ninety nobles, and upwards of three hundred vassals, and he had no less than twenty rowers on each side of his boat.
The assemblies called Thingks, or Things, were always held in the open air. Their sites were generally circular, though sometimes of oval form, The assemblies were held for judicial trials. In these circles, however, marriages were also celebrated, and even markets sometimes held. The Thing was by turns an exchange and court of law. The reader will no doubt bear in mind, that the National Representative Assembly of Norway bears to this day the name of Storthing.
Besides those which I have mentioned, there are many other places, now almost, if not altogether, uninhabited, and respecting which history is silent, which would doubtless, if explored, produce fruitful results. For example, in the Luroe Islands, situated on the coast of Norland, there are four large tumular mounds, which denote that the islands were formerly places of importance, since sepulchres of those dimensions were only assigned to rich and powerful individuals. Some objects of antiquity, much decayed, were found on digging into one of these mounds. Monuments of this kind are tolerably numerous in Norway, and the excavation of them has already led to discoveries both interesting and valuable. There are two in the island of Stegen, where there is also an obelisk about fourteen feet in height, and bearing a Runic inscription. Several of this latter kind exist in the bailiwick of Bergen. At a place called Balestrand, about three-quarters of a mile from the sea, there are two sepulchral mounds, which are said to cover the remains of King Bale. On the shore of Framnes, celebrated by the poet Tegner, and said to have been the abode of Frithiof, the hero of the poem, there is another tumulary mound, which is understood to be the grave of Torsten-Vikingsson. There were also discovered at the isle of Karm, various ornaments of dress, made of gold and silver, and in the bank of Christiana are deposited several curious collars, necklaces, and bracelets, of the purest and most massive gold, and of great value, some of which were found also at Karmoe, and the rest at another place, the name of which I cannot now recollect.
Norway contains, as I have already said, a great number of fortified castles, more or less ancient. The one at Christiana, called Aggerhuus, now used as a place of naval stores, is of an interesting character. There was formerly a strong fort, called after its builder, Sverresborg, one of the most renowned illustrious kings of Norway, but of this nothing now remains save some vestiges of the walls, and a deep well cut in the rock. The old royal castle of Bergen, built in the eleventh century, and now converted into a government magazine, still preserves a little of its ancient architecture. All that remains of the ancient citadel of Tonsberg, formerly so renowned, is a huge plateau of bluish-coloured granite, which overlooks the town. The oldest monument extant, at all events in this part of the country, is the tomb of Bion, son of Harold I. It bears the simple inscription, Farman's Hange (a navigator's tomb).
These are a few of the results which have been for years past recording of the zeal, taste, and activity, which actuates the Norwegians in regard to northern antiquities, and the concurrence of so much learning and research, has already had a powerful effect in contributing to the promotion of archeological discovery there. Cabinets of the most curious and interesting antiquities are formed in several, indeed, in all the principal towns, and their treasures are augmenting every year. The most extensive collection is to be found in the Museum at Christiana, where the objects of one kind and another amount to between two and three thousand.
In all such researches, however, in Norway, some difficulties, great and peculiar, have to be overcome. Highly interesting as the country is to the naturalist, the antiquarian, and the architect; no slight amount of courage, personal activity, and self-denial are requisite. Therefore, it is, that although it abounds in curious historical remains, and in scenery more romantic and sublime than is to be found in any other of the European countries, it is so rarely visited by the traveller. His back once turned upon Christiana with the intention of exploring the interior, and he must trust to his own devices, and bid adieu to every English comfort, a privation which but few are willing to undergo. Want of comfort is complained of in France, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy; but in Norway it is fearfully aggravated. Through extensive tracts of the interior of the country, where interesting objects abound, there are no inns at all, no roads passable, except on the bridle, often no beds, and not only bad cookery, but what is much worse, nothing to cook! Nevertheless, if you can dispense with common comforts, have time, money, a sound constitution, and a good pair of obedient legs at your disposal, then I advise you to leave England for a while, and make a tour in Norway. You will not be unrewarded. What though she has no pictures, no galleries of sculpture, no classical monuments, no fields of modern glory? She has abundant relics of the days of old, there are her historical remains, and shadowy traditions, her heart-stirring mementos and memorials of her Scandinavian ancestors, her fantastic rocks, her bright fiords, her dim mountains, her mighty and silent forests; these, these, are her glories, and all who love and can enjoy such scenes, will visit Old Norway.